Fletcher by Lyell for Urban Outfitters

Way back in January, Emma Fletcher told me she was designing a capsule line for Urban Outfitters, based on some of her older designs. According to U.O., this could build her line with younger consumers who would graduate into the real thing. Emma told me this deal would help her stay in business but obviously seemed unsure that she'd get these young consumers to buy her beautifully tailored wares. After a couple of recession-dogged seasons and her experience with Chicago's Jake--they screwed her by not paying for clothing received and then signed their company over to another one they also owned so they didn't have to cover the old companies debts--she needed something like this to stay in business.

While some bloggers praise these lines (instead of ripping off designers, they get to share in some of the profits, essential for small firms like Emma's), and others lament them as unnecessary dilutions of brands, the reality is without this kind of crossover, companies like Lyell may not be around to sell their fall 09 wares. The fact that U.O. is effectively providing profits for Emma and others may not be ideal, but that's the sad fact of life. After talking to Emma that day, I felt bad that I couldn't afford to get the berry print romper (the one I got on sale) there and then, but there was snow on the ground and Mayle still available at 242 Elizabeth. More time for Lyell, in other words, when the weather and clothing options changed.

Yesterday I had about 20 minutes to spare before acupuncture so I headed into Urban Outfitters to check out Fletcher by Lyell now that it is available in stores. I had been silent about this line as I didn't want to break trust or affect promotions but it seems to have slipped into stores relatively quietly. Besides, it's out now and up for critique. I knew in advance what would be available (and it isn't all out yet), so I was prepared to have some mixed feelings when I saw the clothing. Experience has taught me that you have to see the items in person--online photos don't tell you about fabrics, finishing or give any impression of how things look without good lighting and the kind of digital manipulation that makes cheap look good in pictures alone.

My report is based on the few items available on 14th St/6th Ave--the knitted dress, the tie front blouse, the new version of her Mike cardigan, the vest, silky dress and shorts. The tie front blouse comes in two fabrics--a cheap looking semi transparent black synthetic and a fake silk in the same pattern as the original silk crepe (that I have in ivory/black). It's exactly the same design as the original but obviously more cheaply made (Lyell's finishing is legendary). The pattern version is passable (although not as comfortable to wear, I imagine) but would be something I'd love if I was unable to buy the real thing. The black is not so effective--it looks cheap and flimsy. The silky dress seems to be a version of the Sara W dress from SS 08 but shorter and with a pleated skirt. I was underwhelmed. The detail on the bib is nice but the fabrics again let this down. Still, I imagine many girls will love it. The shorter length is a nice touch--I prefer this length and may get mine altered. The vest is pretty lightweight and very young (the original was heavy and hand knit) and I imagine it will fly off the shelves. The shorts are way too short (even for a teen) and the fabric is way too flimsy--more like underwear. That said, I imagine they'll sell out even if many parents are horrified when their daughters bring them home. The knit dress is OK--it's not a copy of any I remember but has Lyell's signature star detail at the neck. My main complaint was the color--I only saw it in gray and it was a drab shade. I'm sure they make it in black and imagine the details will be lost but I'd love to see it in another lighter color. The Mike cardigan was good: it comes in a black or petrol blue (I prefer the black). If Cindy, Monica, Julie or Loretta had been around, I'd have asked them how it looked on--I did try it but I wasn't really wearing the right thing (acupuncture skirt and t-shirt). Still, I'm really tempted. I just wonder if it will pill badly--although it doesn't look like it will.

So far, I thought Fletcher was OK--the knits surprisingly strong--a line mainly let down by too cheap fabrics (even UO use better for their own lines than they chose for the dresses, shorts and black blouse). Some of these designs are identical, but the pieces demonstrate that the design/pattern alone isn't enough. But this may be deliberate, a way to preserve the value of the originals. After all, Steven Alan's line suffers from the same problems and cotton shirting isn't expensive.

I did think about the impact on the original items. Certainly, I was a little peeved that I spent so much more for the tie front blouse that I will wear for years only to see it translated into a nearly identical fabric for so much less. That said, these tops will not flood the market forever and I will be wearing that blouse years later. Obviously, you have to consider how much this kind of brand dilution will hurt the original lines--how will consumers feel about spending $300-400 on a Lyell blouse if a cheaper version will be in UO in a year or six months? How does that affect sales? Do people spend this kind of money for distinction, quality, style or a mixture of all three? I know this isn't an easy question to answer. I don't want to wear the same as my students, but I also don't want to wear a scratchy cardigan or a creased, too shiny dress. That said, a few years ago, I didn't have that luxury. Grad students, undergrads and high school students don't have hundreds of dollars to spend on one item and I know I didn't notice these quality issues back when I was 20 or 25, even though some of my vintage items were of far higher quality than my topshop and Miss Selfridge finds. Then again, I like to think that the high street was better quality back then--maybe it was, maybe this is just nostalgia.

I wondered how I'd feel if Mayle had signed up for Jane for Urban Outfitters and reproduced cheap Elviras, Ikelienes, Vanyas, Izoldas, Ignatias, and Pinas. I tried to imagine a cheap shiny Federica sitting there next to a scratchy wool Odette. It wasn't a happy thought and I was surprised to find myself feeling this level of discomfort. It's not that I don't want others to enjoy these designs but my imagination showed me the cheap fabrics that would be chosen. And fabric choice is so central for the drape, feel and the overall beauty of these items.

That said, these things do get ripped off. The other day, a girl sat next to me on the subway wearing F21's notorious Florinda knock off in all its cheap shininess. Granted she probably had no idea what it was and just liked it. Even yesterday, I saw the knockoff monogram clogs that UO are still selling, so these things will happen regardless. Yes, I'd rather see true creativity in these stores and from their suppliers--and I'd love it if they hired young designers to express their vision--but pragmatically, I'd rather see Lyell and others stay in business and if that means signing these deals with UO, so be it. Besides, I may finally get that Mike cardi and the other peacoat if they are halfway decent--items I missed out on the first time round. And some of that money will go to Emma, who is a great and talented person who deserves more success and exposure.