Mayle Pop Up Report, Part One

I made it into Mayle at 3 yesterday (somehow, I feel I've typed that opening sentence way too many times recently). I had called earlier and they said it was quiet. It was still that way at 3, so I think the initial fervor has vanished, along with much of the stock. That said, representatives of every piece were still available, although the choice fabrics and sizes were not.

First, the facts (and this is straight from Elise who noted that they don't know anything about specific styles, although they know certain pieces will NOT be made). This first shipment of re-editions contained 11 pieces. There will be a total of 30 styles coming in over the next few weeks. Most of what to follow will be dresses. There will be no bags, no knitwear. Monogram clogs in leopard will come in later in the month, probably near the very end. There may be some other patterns/prints of the clogs, all without the monogram, but that's not certain. If it happens, there will not be full size ranges. There will be no cotton jumper dresses--most of what is coming in is in silk. No Federica dress either. Most of the pieces in the older photos now in the store will not be remade--the only exception is the Avignon dress. She said nothing about coats, but they seem unlikely. I think this is it for skirts and pants too.

The first shipment included Laetitia skirts in a variety of prints. Many were in heavier fabrics (brocades, gabardines). Almost all were in prints. What's left includes a pale blue brocade (similar in print to the pink used on a baby billie), some early 1970s brown/olive/white prints. There are the flared low-rise pants mentioned in a variety of brighter prints--the green from my dress from Summer 06 with the almost paisley style floral print, pink pinstriped fabric, white/blue canvas mattress style print. These were $395 each and seemed to have very few takers. I think the skirts are nice but overpriced. They are also way too short for someone my height (5'10")--nearer a belt than a skirt. The pants were insane but the right very tall, very skinny and probably very beautiful hipster/rocker/California beach girl type could probably look amazing in them.

The other plentiful items were the voluminous Ishii dress and shirt (the dress is the shirt lengthened to the knee or just below). These run big so a size 6 could work even on a 10. They are too beach cover up for me. Basically they are very simple: slight mandarin collar fastened with a row of buttons, yoke back, puffed 3/4 sleeves. Tops are available in a variety of fabrics, several are sheer florals, others are eyelet. Dresses are available in black silk, a kind of lurex polyester style print, and a flamingo pink matte silk with an intaglio print, trimmed with black buttons. The dress is $395, the tops $395 and higher, depending on fabric. I think they had a lot of more expensive fabrics for this but they've gone.

Three colorways of Mitsu were left--Amalfi flowers (I nearly got this, the 6 fit, but I wasn't 100% sure about the yellow zippers), Ada white cotton with black flower print and the dalmatia cotton print from a few summers back. Elise was surprised that they remade this as it wasn't a best seller, but it was a nice dress.

There was one Petulia dress in a size 2 (7 of 7) left--identical to Marti's and the best piece from the collection in my opinion. Had they had it in an 8, I'd be wearing it now.

The Lima dress and top were lace, black and cream colorways available, simple, u-back and front with some grosgrain trim around its 3/4 sleeves and in the front. Both pretty but transparent and need to be worn over slips and camisoles.

Cliveden top. At $525 and up, this was the most expensive piece. Very cropped, pretty slit sleeves, v neck wrap style, 3/4 puff sleeves with ruffle trim. Most elaborate piece in the collection in terms of the workmanship. Also made in the broadest range of fabrics--sheer chiffons I've never seen, the black floral from Holiday 07. This looks like it runs small--if you are a 0, you could wear the 2, maybe even 4.

The lace Sylvania top--one left in gauze. My other favorite. But it is so transparent I passed. I loved it but how much more black Mayle clothing do I need? I'm hoping for cobalt blues, lavender, greens, the green/lavender print from Summer 06, iris colored silks, the magenta used for Clothilde and other jewel tones. But I did have a mild regret as I passed.

The simple Barcelona dress seemed to have just one black version left. I saw someone try it on--it is lovely, despite its limited detailing. It's a lot like my Lyell moon print dress without the ruffle.

The Therese dress (style 11) had arrived--just one size 4 so far. It's bias-cut, 40s style, v-neck with flutter sleeves. It falls above the knee and has a slight ruffle/slit/wrap effect in the skirt. The one I saw was in black silk with a white lace diamond over the stomach and white lace trim by the neck/shoulders. This was $495 and there will be others. It is one of the pieces that will be in this week in a number of sizes. It's very pretty, more an event dress and, yes, looks like it has the quality of a chambermaid frock, Bunuel or not.

There was also another skirt--a detailed black silk miniskirt (very short). Bias cut, it had a fold-over top and a strip of fabric that came down into a slight V. It was $395 (I suspect it is style 12 and part of the collection that includes Therese). Nobody paid it any attention but it was beautifully crafted. Again, too tiny for a 5'10" girl but this is one of the more exquisitely crafted pieces and one I suspect could be a great investment buy.

So, that's that for now. The store is very spartan these days (I think Jane has removed several of the pieces that decorated the left hand side, including the shelves). The walls are decorated with posters from last summer's Corazan de Chihuahaua collection (spelling likely wrong)--a poster I'd never even seen that featured lipstick writing around its margins; posters for A Haiku for Carlos M. are in both dressing rooms (I think this is Fall/Winter 2003). There is a huge frame of old pictures and fabric swatches that Jane put together for this farewell and a beautiful large framed black and white profile shot of her head leaning against it. She's lying in a bed without make-up.

I don't know if this means that Carlos M and Summer 08 are inspirations for this collection, bookends, or what. But there is a sense of the quickly fading past in the air. Some girls came in and asked if the counter was for sale while I was there (they weren't in the least bit interested in the clothes). Elise said it might be and they said it would make a great bar before they turned and left. I was horrified--there was a shared sense in the air that this was near blasphemy. I imagine all the other fixtures will be returned to Jane as so much has already been removed. Really, it is quite sad.


Addendum: I forgot one other piece--a camisole with thicker straps (like Zoia) with buttons up the back in the black and white print used for Zenith. This was $295.